4/60

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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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User avatar
joedev151
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2019 7:51 am
Location: Co Offaly, Ireland
Contact:
Ireland

Re: 4/60

Post by joedev151 »

User avatar
joedev151
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2019 7:51 am
Location: Co Offaly, Ireland
Contact:
Ireland

Re: 4/60

Post by joedev151 »

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The clutch fork cross shaft and bushes were worn so my machine shop man made up new shaft and bushes, huge difference. Fitted back the clutch and put new bushes in the fork and everything connected up, all looks good.
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Lifted back the steering box complete with new bushes in the clutch pedal shaft. I made up new gasket with gasket paper and instant gasket for the last bit i left too short.
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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Steering box/bell all bolted up and clutch pedal on. Battery box on and diesel tank back in place, looking a little better than when it came off with a bad dent and a leaking seam.
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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Taking the HPU/tombstone off with the help of the engine crane, remove all the studs and the weight still rests on 2 dowels. Screw 2 studs into threaded holes in the flange and this pushes out the tombstone easily without any other force needed. When I removed the big brass nut under the PTO there was no filter, good for the Hyd pump eh! I later got a filter and magnet in good condition from a breaker. Fitted a new PTO selector shaft, new bush and seal and cleaned everything.
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joedev151
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Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2019 7:51 am
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Re: 4/60

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https://studio.youtube.com/video/y57p4r1C7Nc/edit
Everything back together and working as it should
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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With the tombstone off a good chance to change the hub seals on the LH half shaft which was leaking, Split key straightened out and tipped out with a 5mm parallel punch. 3 studs holding the hub, important to clean any rust and debris around the heads to get proper grip. A short L bar and 5/16 socket and bar perfect to open and 14mm wrench will work the rest, the shaft tapped out fairly easy but is heavy. When out I cut a plastic can to make a scoop and cleaned out the awful gunge that left in the axel, one of the glorys of tractor restoration! Then start planning how to remove the bearing.
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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Once again my trusty puller is pressed into service, this time the axel bearing kit is used with all the extensions to shift the bearing off the first step, then a short extension will move off the last step. We have the puller many years now and is a must have. There are a 2 leg and 3 leg puller for it as well, so many uses. With the bearing removed the seal hub just slides off.
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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Replacing the seals is a fairly simple job, knock out the old ones and clean it up nicely. A felt seal fits into the first grove then the 2 lip seals, job done.
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joedev151
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Re: 4/60

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Putting the shaft back is a little trickier than taking it out, you need a second person with a lever to hold up the cog wheel straight and level to get the shaft back. Nut on and I tightened it with a big socket, 61mm I think to bed in the bearings then I loosened it back to the marks I had put on the shaft and nut before removal. I did not have to replace the bearings and everything went back the same so hopefully is right. There has to be a small amount of " float" on the shaft and there is a way of measuring it but I don't have. So split key back in and secured.
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